Update: BTW, I've not used a dedicated flash before... can they be set so the camera measures both the flash and the daylight automatically? And maybe weighted a bit towards one or the other?
Update: do-it-yourself diffusers here and here and here.
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Here's a youtube playlist with several videos talking about various flash light methods. I've watched the first one so far, and it's a nice quick introduction to many basics. (I just wish people wouldn't use the !@£$%@@&*@!*&£! music over their videos. What an amazingly bad idea.)
Man, technology companies and product naming... jeez. I just found out that Nikon's flash guns are called "Speedlight", which of course will never be confused with Ricoh's "Speedlite" or indeed Canon's "Speedlite"... Way to use your imagination, guys.
Why all those names anyway? Why not just call it a "Canon Flash"?
And all the fancy names to the various technologies... Nikon cameras now use "digitempsuperduperXmethod" technology in their sensor, which I'm somehow supposed to remember or at least think means something to me. Oh, wait, it uses "digitempsuperduperXmethod" III, which clearly is a much superior version to the second one! Why not just say that 'our imaging software is very fast and precise now'. What use do I have for those names?
I'm waiting for Canon's biggest flash, the 580EX II (a five-star average over 250 reviews! Wow, you don't see that often), to make it through xmas mail delivery delays (I was actually told Monday the 21st Dec by the mailman, over a week ago, that a parcel would come out with the van, and it has not arrived yet!). It seems it has quite a punch!
Update: Modern flashes are awesome. For example, this one has a mode for many continous fast flashes (in practice it is continuous light), which will let you use a fast shutter speed if needed instead of the usual max shutter time (for the shutter to be completely open at one instant). And the camera will tell the flash the focal length (or zoom setting I think), and get the flash to zoom to equivalent length! Holy moley. (Zooming the flash makes for a tighter "beam" so you don't waste light with a long lens.)
12 comments:
For me the last link had this as the next vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90cRyd4LpJo&NR=1
Now that is something I would have never tried doing. How do people stumble onto this sort of thing.
I have the the 580EX MI (same output specs) and it does have some punch. Play with running it in Manual and dialing it down a bit. In that mode you should be able to use it with any camera that has a hot shoe. Although it may be larger than some of your cameras :-)
Your next mission, should you decide, is to purchase a Canon 7D. Built in wireless flash commander. No more wired or 3rd party flash triggers for off camera flash. Liberation, within line-of-sight.
Steve
Hmmm. What trigger does it use? Light? Radio? Infrared?
Surely it only works with flashes designed for it?
Update: BTW, I've not used a dedicated flash before... can they be set so the camera measures *both* the flash and the daylight automatically? And maybe weighted a bit towards one or the other?
1st question. The 7D camera uses the Canon IR for control, so line of sight is pretty much a given. It is basically a built in ST-E2 transmitter. Works reliably only with the Canon flashes.
If memory serves you have a 5D and that will require either using the flash in the hot shoe (on camera), wiring it with PC (not computer) cabling or some type of wireless trigger (off camera).
2nd question. When using the 580 MII on camera or off camera with a ST-E2 or Off Camera Shoe Cord you will be in ETTL II, in other words fully auto. Flash output in theory is controlled by the camera meter and adjusted for ambient light. In practice I have found it takes some adjustment that can be done in the camera. On the 5D the top right most button is for AE type or Flash Compensation. With camera on, press that button and use the rear wheel to dial the flash +/-2 EV. I like a subdued look, so I use -1 to 2 EV depending on the histo.
When this whole flash thing gets fun is when you go to manual (the 580 will then work with most cameras with a hotshoe). Set your camera up for -1 1/2 EV off of ambient (assuming you are using AV or TV mode) then dial the flash up or down depending on your taste. A little bounce here and a bit of reflector there and you got good stuff going on.
Right, thanks for the advice.
I found the compensation button on my 5D II.
(I also have a 400D (T1i). Nicely light/small, and takes the zooms I have.)
(Actually I have the 24-105mm ff zoom, but I've become disenfranchised with it, it does not seem so sharp wide on full frame.)
... Huh, what a funny coincidence: I googled for the reviews of that L zoom lens, and the first link leads to the same site you just linked to, Steve, the-digital-picture.com.
Cousin (hey, I am 1/4 Danish), hang in there with the 24-105. Unless you have a bad copy you can dial the AF in with the AF micro adjustment feature on your camera. Mine took a -2 adjustment. You might also like it on the 400D, although front heavy.
For a well balanced walk around fixed lens on the 5, I would highly recommend the 35 f/1.4L. Wonderful things can happen with that combo.
For when you want to get a bit more intimate the experience of a 135 f/2L is not to be missed.
Thanks.
I dunno why the last pics I took were not sharp, I'll have to test it, because I just found the test pictures I took when I got it, and it's sharp.
I have the 35mm 1.4 and the 85mm 1.2, very good lenses.
I'm considering doing some portraits of my neighbors, to get a little training.
Your 5D MII, like my 7D, are very high res and camera shake or any other user error will result in soft images. I have found I have to take my part of it more into consideration before I discount the equipment.
If truth be told, the new equipment most likely surpassed my capabilities with the 20D and mid tier lenses.
Training is good, subjects for free is even better. For single portraits go with the 85 @ f/4, bounce the 580 off the ceiling/wall @45 degrees or use the new Fong and -1 EV on the flash for a good starting point.
As they say just south of here; "Good luck Gringo".
Yes, those settings sound very sound, thanks.
And you're right about the rez. One tends to forget that looking at 22MP at 100% is not the same as looking at 12MP at 100%.
I'll def use the Fong. I haven't taken flash pics since my teens, and boy did those suck! But I've passed a lot of water from bridges since, so it should be interesting.
Oh, if I set the camera to Program mode, will it expose the background correctly for the existing light?
It depends on the distance between subject and background. So it will take a few test images.
If you can find an old mannequin head or some such thing you can test settings on the camera/flash setup.
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